
"Here's a tree that produces prodigious numbers of flowers," says Allen Young, gazing at an ornate pink
flower. "You'll see waves of flowers on the trees at certain times of the year. But only 2 to
3 percent
of them are productive in terms of yielding harvestable-size pods." A cherry orchard in Maryland or
Wisconsin might produce seven or eight times as much fruit for that number of flowers.
For 10 years he studied why so few blooms were pollinated. As the entomology curator at the Milwaukee
Public Museum, which owns the preserve, he focused, naturally, on the insects that frequented cacao, and
found that instead of bees certain midge species -- a group of gnatlike flies -- were its chief
pollinators. Young scattered chopped-up bits of banana plants and leaf litter in stands of cacao and
recorded the numbers of the beneficial midges. He also experimented with other possible aids to breeding
the flies, including artificial bromeliads constructed of plastic cups and decaying plant matter.
He stayed on the lookout for clues -- the times of day and seasons most favorable for pollination;
whether sun or shade, wet or dry areas fostered the largest population of midges; whether the midges
might have a preference for certain kinds of rotting debris; whether more midges necessarily lead to
larger numbers of healthy cacao pods.

Every experiment pointed to the same conclusion: The bigger a cacao plantation, the more it frustrates
the midges in their efforts to pollinate individual cacao flowers. The midges are happiest in the shady,
humid rainforest full of damp leaf litter and epiphytes growing on the cacao trees. They have little
incentive to penetrate very far into the dryer, sunnier and well-tended plantations.
Not only that, but he identified which of the 78 aromatic substances cacao flowers give off to attract
the midges. Young found that selective breeding of domesticated cacao trees inadvertently altered the
flower's smell, making it less desirable to nearby midges.
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